Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot, Bourgogne Blanc 2022
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This fine domaine was founded in 1985 when Jean-Marc Boillot left his job as winemaker for Olivier Leflaive Frères and rented some vines in Pommard and Volnay. In 1988, he inherited some vines in both appellations from his grandfather; two years later, a third of Domaine Etienne Sauzet was left to him by his grandmother. This bequest of talent and land is rare in Burgundy, but explains why, in the course of just under four decades, the domaine has acquired such a vaunted reputation in Burgundy.
Jean-Marc has now retired to the south of France and the domaine is run by his daughter Lydie and her husband François Alzingre. The whites are as restrained and elegant as they were when we first came across them three decades ago, but the reds are now much more accessible, having benefitted by Lydie’s and Francois’ lighter touch. The domaine has 10 hectares in the Côte d’Or, split almost equally between red and white, and 13 hectares in the Mâconnais. The latter wines have a Côte d’Or sensibility combined with a balance that makes them outstanding value. They started making wines from the Mâconnais in 2012 when their vines in the Côte d’Or were hit by hail. Such was the success of the wines that they bought their first vineyards in the Mâconnais in 2015 and then, in 2019, a domaine.
The Bourgogne Blanc is entirely from vineyards in the Côte d’Or – 75% from Puligny and 25% from Volnay. Like all their white wines, the grapes are whole bunch pressed and fermented in 350 litre oak barrels, 25% of which are new. The wine has lovely balance and wears its oak lightly, displaying a lovely grainy texture with excellent length.
This elegant Bourgogne Blanc is medium lemon in colour, with vibrant aromas of citrus on the nose. Fresh, generous notes of candied pear and ripe peach on the palate are accompanied by a touch of white chocolate. The wine has lovely balance and wears its oak lightly, displaying a lovely grainy texture with excellent length.